By now most of us are aware of the irreparable damage that has been done to our ocean fisheries due to over-fishing and environmental factors. On a personal level, I find the prospect of mass extinctions terrifying, and as a chef, the ethical balancing act required in sourcing sustainable seafood products that are both delicious and affordable can be daunting. That is why the arrival of albacore tuna in local waters during the Bay Area summer is so welcome. When anchovies and sardines are schooling, albacore tuna arrive for the feast. Hook and line caught, and arriving at the restaurant within 36 hours of its capture, like Dungeness crab it is truly one of our local treasures.
When available over the next several weeks, we’ll be offering tostadas smeared with Peruano beans, and topped with oil-poached albacore tuna marinated with celery hearts, Fresno chiles, capers, and dried Sun Gold tomatoes.